So many distractions nowadays; easy to have a messy head. Reality can be overwhelming. Things can be blurry every now and then and many of our actions may seem meaningless. For instance, what is the relation between surfing and photography? Is there any sense in combining the two? Or is it pure whim? Photography is light, it is literally experimenting with light, and when you enjoy it, it can become a game in which your goal is capturing a worthy moment. Surf is also experimenting with a different element though: water, and how it affects or flows with your body, your balance. It is also sort of playing a very serious game, and of course, capturing the right moment.
Patience is a key element in both cases. There is a lot of waiting, observing, a lot of attempts, mistakes, a lot of pictures that fail and waves that drag you down. But it is only after finding true calm between the mental tide, that you can catch the right moment, the magic instant with your shot and the magic wave that will transport you into your new reality, your glorious moment. It is this moment when you find joy.